restaurant of the month - january 2009

Full-flavored Cajun and fusion delights

Bayou offers Big Easy cuisine in stylish setting

BAYOU, 2060 N. Humboldt Blvd., combines a creative take on “Big Easy” cuisine with a sleek interior that has earned a Gold Award from The American Society of Interior Decorators.

Here, stylish also means warm and welcoming. Lighted architectural elements break up the space into smaller areas where booths and tables nestle. Forget stereotypical Mardi Gras decorations in bright green and purple. Custom light fixtures and softly lit paintings on the walls generate a subtle glow that feels like a warm Louisiana embrace. With its location perched high above the Milwaukee River, there are scenic views by day and night from the windows. The patio that runs the length of the restaurant is the place to be on warmer days.

As wonderful as the décor is, the food is even better. Bayou features a menu of full-flavored, soulful Cajun and “international fusion” dishes. Owners Bill and Robert Jenkins have used their experience in food and bar operations to give Milwaukee something special.

Examples of the international fusion side of Bayou abound on the late-night appetizer menu available in Bayou’s spacious bar area from 10 p.m.-midnight on Friday and Saturday. Smoked duck spring rolls, red fish and scallop ceviche, and a Portobello tempura beckon. The butter-poached lobster taco is served with Vampire Blood Hot Sauce, one of the restaurant’s homemade hot (and not-so-hot) sauces that also are available separately for a cool $1 a shot. Vampire Blood sauce combines ancho and chipotle peppers, strawberries, sesame seeds, Mexican chocolate and molasses.

The drink menu also reveals the “let the good times roll” attitude at Bayou. Descriptions of the special drinks are both entertaining as well as tempting. Anybody up to trying a “Punch Drunk Love?” Abita beer from Louisiana is available in a variety of styles – try the pale ale.

In the dining room, gumbo is a menu staple and is available every evening, as well as Po Boys and sandwiches. Bayou burgers are served grilled or blackened.

Salad-lovers will want to try the Cajun Caesar Salad, with chipotle lime Caesar dressing, roasted red peppers, croutons, parmesan and goat cheese, with the option of adding popcorn crawfish or poached shrimp.

The entrée menu makes choosing a challenge. The French Quarter Jambalaya combines gulf shrimp, crawfish, chicken ham and andouille sausage. Don’t ignore the Bayou Fried Chicken. Crispy, all-white meat chicken is served with Tasso gravy, a white, satiny cream-like sauce flavored with Louisiana ham and macque-choux, a spicy corn dish made with onions and cream.

The catfish filet is served blackened (with mango sauce) or fried (with remoulade). Lake Pontchartrain Crawfish Tacos combine a chorus of tastes and textures – the crispy battered crawfish, creamy cabbage, corn and Hoodoo Voodoo.

Many of the entrees are served with beans and rice and Bayou’s trademark cornbread, which is embellished with jalapeno peppers.

Bayou has been hailed as one of Milwaukee’s best spots for brunch, and you can check it out Saturdays and Sundays from 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Crab and shrimp grits with eggs, shrimp etoufee and eggs and biscuits and gravy kick-off the menu. The French toast features pecan and raisin bread, Omelets highlight that international fusion flair with different versions featuring an herb and goat cheese; avocado, salsa and cheddar or Caribbean smoked salmon versions among the offerings. “Bayou Benedicts” include a blackened catfish choice as well as a traditional style (served with cheese grits or new potato).

Getting to Bayou from downtown is easy, but construction on the Humboldt bridge just south of North Avenue has limited access from the north. Phone 414-431-1511 for directions or visit www.bayoumilwaukee.com. There is a convenient parking garage underneath the restaurant’s building.

Bayou is open for dinner 5-10 p.m. Monday-Friday and the kitchen is open until midnight Friday and Saturday. (Bar area open until bar close on weekends). Sunday, brunch is served from 10 a.m.-3 p.m. and dinner from 5-10 p.m. Bayou will open for lunch again in the spring when patrons clamor for seats on that scenic, second-story patio. Check for updates at the Bayou website and KeyMilwaukee.com.