restaurant of the month - march 2009

Authentic Japanese cuisine in the Third Ward

“Zen Minimalist” Nanakusa delights diners

”SIMPLE BUT ELEGANT.”

This phrase from owner Richard Kaiser aptly describes Milwaukee’s Nanakusa, located at 408 E. Chicago St. in the Historic Third Ward.

The decor has been described as “Zen Minimalist.” Kaiser directed the architect to draw on the natural beauty of birch wood, simple geometric shapes, and creative lighting. While the impression created is one of serenity, different areas of the restaurant offer a dining experience that ranges from very social to very intimate.

The menu offers food that is authentically Japanese, including teriyaki, noodles, appetizers, salads, sushi, tempura or one-pot meals.

The flexibility of the menu also allows diners to make a meal of a number of small dishes. This dovetails with the preference of contemporary diners, who may prefer ordering several small dishes, rather than a large entree and specific side dishes.

With choices that range from Kobe beef to sashimi appetizers, Nanakusa also caters to the conservative as well as adventuresome diner.

The steak-lover will welcome the opportunity to try wagyu beef (a breed of cattle) that is raised in the traditional Japanese way in Idaho at Snake River Farms. The result is incredibly tender.

And, under the watchful eye of Nanakusa’s Japanese sushi chef, an astonishing array of sushi and sashimi all are prepared to Nanakusa's strict quality standards for its seafood.

The wine list at Nanakusa, recipient of the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence, includes more than 140 wines. Because the wines have been selected specifically to pair with Japanese cuisine, the list offers some intriguing choices. Or, choose a saki from the largest selection in the state.

Recognizing the challenging economic times, Nanakusa for a limited time is featuring special Wine Tuesdays and Sushi Wednesdays. Every Tuesday evening, the restaurant is taking 25% off all wine purchases, including glass pours, half bottles and full bottles. On Wednesdays, at lunch or dinner, the restaurant will be taking 15% off all sushi selections.

Helping diners with all of these options is an extremely knowledgeable, friendly staff. Nanakusa welcomes diners for lunch 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Tuesday through Friday and for dinner 5-10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday and 5- 9 p.m. Sunday. Closed Monday.