restaurant of the month - june 2009

Casablanca on Brady provides delicious oasis
By MIKE EWING

AS THE CITY THAWS and the heat of summer settles over Milwaukee, the winds whipping off Lake Michigan sometimes feel more Mediterranean than Midwestern. If these hot days (or your hunger) put you in the mood for the tastes of the Middle East, Casablanca sits waiting for you like a delicious oasis.

Luckily, getting there is easier than finding water in the middle of the Sahara. Just take Water Street north and follow it to where it turns into Brady Street. It’s only a short distance to Casablanca’s signature black awning at 728 E. Brady St.

Stepping inside, the sweet smell of hookah lingers enticingly in the air. The black marble, white lights and intimate feel of Casablanca’s bar evoke the classic film of the same name. It’s a modern place that strikes the balance between the new and the old, with a sense of tradition that continues on its menu. There you’ll find a wide range of authentic dishes that are as tasty as they are hard to spell, from hummus to shawarma to babaghannoj. And you will find burgers too, since it’s still Milwaukee after all.

Casablanca is the most recent iteration of a family tradition that goes back over two decades in Milwaukee. Jesse Musa opened the first restaurant on Mitchell Street in the late 1980s. Day-to-day operations were a family affair, according to Jesse’s son, Alaa. Once they were old enough, the Musa children would do whatever they could-- washing dishes, sweeping, cooking-- to help out.

Although Casablanca’s popularity grew and it moved into larger quarters, the restaurant closed its doors in 2002 when Jesse Musa decided to retire.

But the Musa family couldn’t stay away from the restaurant business for long. In 2005, the oldest brothers got together and decided to revive Casablanca, according to Alaa Musa. Now that his sons are running the business, Jesse Musa is back in the kitchen, making the same dishes he’s made for decades.

“He’s always making everything up from scratch and you can tell that from the food; it tastes fresh,” Alaa Musa said. “It’s very labor intensive but nothing leaves that kitchen unless it’s perfect.”

It’s the food that keeps people coming back to Casablanca day after day. Especially popular with vegetarians is Casablanca’s lunch buffet, which is open from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. every day and is a meat-free affair.

The friendly and knowledgeable staff can answer any questions. Sandwiches, salads, soups and appetizers – all are tempting. There’s plenty for meat-lovers on the dinner menu, which includes a wide range of Middle Eastern lamb, chicken and beef dishes.

Demand for baked lamb (previously available only Friday and Saturday) and creative dishes (featured on special occasion menus) has been so high that they’ve added new items to their menu for the first time in 20 years.

“In the case of the baked lamb, people were telling us, ‘I really need this.’ It’s now available on the dinner menu seven days a week,” said Alaa Musa.

Casablanca has plenty to offer after dark, with a kitchen that’s open until midnight and a bar open until the official closing hour every night of the week. Relax in the bar as you puff on a hookah, sample a special martini or enjoy a glass of wine (a new addition to the wine list – vintages from Lebanon). There’s live entertainment, too, with belly dancers on Friday nights at 8:30 and 10:30 p.m. and a live D.J. on Thursday and Saturday nights. Even more entertainment is planned for the summer months.

For information, www.casablancaonbrady.com or phone 414-271-6000.