Envoy

“New American” cuisine in Art Deco splendor

ENVOY, one of Milwaukee’s newest restaurants, offers a “New American” style of cuisine that’s a perfect fit for the recently refurbished Ambassador Hotel.

The Ambassador at 2305 W. Wisconsin Ave. was a definite break from the past when it first opened in 1928. Located alongside the mansions of Milwaukee’s first families from the 19th century, the hotel is one of Milwaukee’s best examples of Art Deco style that “modernized“ many artistic styles and themes from the past. Reopened earlier this year, the fully renovated hotel blends the splendor of the “Roaring Twenties” with the best 21st-century amenities. And nowhere is that blending more evident than in Envoy.

Chef Dan Smith, who has spent most of his career on the West Coast, is pleased to be back in his native Midwest. The Chicago native worked under celebrity chef Jeremiah Tower at San Francisco’s Stars restaurant and most recently served as executive chef of Hornblower Cruises and Events in San Francisco.

At Envoy, Smith emphasizes regional ingredients, including the best products from Wisconsin and the Midwest. Smith’s “New American” style turns basic entrees like chicken, lamb, filet of beef and pork chops in unique and flavorful directions. Choose from grilled chicken breast with smoked tomato and mushroom risotto; Thai curried rack of lamb with green papaya salad and coconut cream; or filet of beet with porcini crust, truffled mashed potatoes and mushroom glace.

Other entrees, including fish and shellfish offerings, are equally unique. Even the traditional cheeseburger has a place on the Envoy menu–topped with Carr Valley applewood cheddar and accompanied by pommes frites.

Appetizers at Envoy intrigue, from a spicy tuna roll using ahi tuna, avocado, kokuho rice and ponzu to black pepper quail in a fennel-mushroom salad and thyme oil or a Portobello fritter in a tomato salad with citrus aioli and fried basil. Pizza Margherita blends tomato, basil, fresh mozzarella and olive oil, while “pizza o dios mio” brings together four cheeses in truffle oil.

At lunch, Envoy offers Smith’s versions of the traditional Cobb and Caesar salads, as well as the five-spice duck salad with duck breast, soba noodles, Asian greens and hoisin dressing. And the soups change each day.

Daily breakfast and a Sunday Brunch are served at Envoy. The brunch is thoughtfully served tableside from 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Envoy serves breakfast 6:30 –11 a.m., lunch from 11 a.m.-4 p.m. and dinner from 4-10 p.m. The adjacent Envoy Lounge offers food until midnight and also live jazz every Friday and Saturday evening. Rounding out the dining possibilities at the Ambassador is a coffee bar, providing Wi-Fi Internet access in stylish Art Décor surroundings.

Located just west of the Marquette University campus, the hotel features free parking and a free shuttle to and from locations in the downtown area. Special rooms available for groups and last-minute holiday parties. Call 345-5015 for Envoy reservations.

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